Sunday, January 2, 2011


A VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!! Lets hope we all have a better and safer New Year and for our TROOPS  also.May they  all be safe.
Well these  times are for family and friends,and of course shopping.Hot Rods somehow have to take a back seat for a while,while other priorities are placed ahead.
I had to undo the front motor mounts and drop them slightly so I could achieve almost a zero degree angle on the trans.I came out at 1+ at the trans rear.I started to mock up the 9 inch housing with a pumpkin to see about where I was in relation to the center of the whole thing.Nothing in the rear housing is tacked yet.I installed jack stands and blocks with a 0 degree to see what it looked like.
Once it is all tacked up, we want the rear to be aprox. 2 degrees less than trans,as when accelerated the rear tends to go up.You need about 2 or minus in order to make the u joints needles bearings and grease to rotate.If not,you will get premature wear,and possible vibration concerns.I've read just about all the info on this subject I could find,and it seems everyone has an opinion.I just went on what sounded and what everyone has in common and am going with that.Most of the best information comes from driveshaft and rear end assembly manufactures.They seem to the information down to a science.Can't much argue with that,huh?
Am ready to mock up the 4-link system and will post pictures of progress.[yeah, I snucked in the garage when no one was lookin]and  did some some work,but not much.Man It was cold as in Maryland in late Nov.&Dec.Had to buy one of those propane heater units that mount on top of a propane tank.Seems to work well,The 2 element unit holds about 20 hours of pretty good heat when set at the medium setting.You have to set it about 10 ft. or so from where you are,to stay comfee! Takes a long time to try to head a 44 ft. garage with no insulation.
Anyway, pictures to come tommorow of the rear being fitted in relation to the rest of the drive.

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